My fingerstrength project

I have a moon fingerboard and I follow a shortened program outlined on the moonclimbing site. I use a hang with sligth bend in elbow and shoulder pulled into its socket. A set has failed when any angle fails significantly should it be finger, elbow or shoulder. When excersice 3 and 6 have been completed successfully for 3 session it's time to reduce assistance. This stricter rules where introduced at the 18 kg level.


1. Double armed dead hang on front three fingers open handed. (hold 5) 3x6 seconds with 90 seconds rest between sets.

2. Double armed dead hang on middle two fingers open handed. (hold 5) 3x6 seconds with 90 seconds rest between sets.

3. Hang open handed on three fingers on one arm, decrease resistance as required until hang can be completed. (hold 2) 3x6 seconds per arm with 60 seconds between hangs.

Rest 5 minutes.

4. Double armed hang on full crimp position, on a first joint edge. (hold 1) 3x6 seconds with 90 seconds rest between sets.

5. Double armed hang on full crimp, this time slightly smaller than the last set, i.e., _ of the the finger tip. (hold 3) 3x6 seconds with 90 seconds rest between sets.

6. Single arm hang on 1st joint edge, decrease resistance if required until hang can be completed. (hold 1) 3x6 seconds per arm with 60 seconds between hangs.


Assistance for excersise 3:
2009-09-08 - 20kg
2009-10-10 - 18kg
2009-10-29 - 16kg

Assistance for excersise 6:
2009-09-08 - 20kg
2009-10-10 - 18kg
2009-10-29 - 16kg


Due to the friction of the pulley system there is more help than actual kilos used, here is an conversion table with the more accurate assistance.

18kg = About 24kg maximum assistance
16kg = About 21kg maximum assistance